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Below you will find the humble beginnings of a page dedicated on how to do trials manuvers. If you have any tips, tricks, and or techniques for doing simple or even complex trials moves, please let me know and I will post them here. doachs@gac.edu
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There are many ways to cross log piles
How you do it depends on the specifics of the log pile itself.
The first approach is to go at them head on.
Start by putting your front tire up on the first log, then move it up to the next
log. The back tire will follow behind, climbing the logs as if they were
steps.
Many times the first approach doesn't work Usually the bike is the wrong length to hop up a log at a time with each tire. In that case it is easier to climb the log pile at an angle. Start with an angle of about 45 degrees to the logs with your front tire on the first log. Continue up the log pile until your back tire touches the first log. Then you hop up one log with the front tire and one log with the back tire.
Yet another way is to take them by lining up parallel to the logs, and hopping up the pile sideways, both tires at the same time,one log at a time.
Here is another way as described by Peter Johannesson:
You lift the front wheel and stand jumping on the back wheel. Then you
align yourself parallell with the piles and jump sideways.
It takes much practice but when you can hold your balance on the
back wheel it's much easier (you don't get so tired) than
jumping with both wheels touching the ground.
I bike in Gothenburg, Sweden. Here we have lots of plateus and
benches.
Sidehopping
"To pull off a nice sidehop from virtually any height there is a good way
of doing it that almost guarantees your back wheel landing first.
Roll slowly along the wall or whatever it is you're juming off, and
stop.
Get your balance, and then pull a 'manual' endo, swinging the back wheel
over the edge of the drop. When you feel it starting to drop down below
the level of your front wheel, lean back a bit and pull the front wheel
up and sideways over the edge. You might want to practise doing this
off a kerb or a 2' wall before you start doing any serious height,
because you've got to get enough swing on it so that your bars or cranks
don't catch the wall as you drop, which hurts.
As you fall through the air pull up on the bars and push down with your
feet. The more vertical you can set the bike up, the sweeter the
landing'll be. This gets important when you start hopping off 6 foot
walls.
As you get better and more confident, you'll be able to pull the hop
without stopping first, and you'll eventually get the momentum (and the
technique) to pull 180's and finally 360's off walls.
(I think you need a corner to pull a 360 off, but I can't do them yet)
I know a fair bit about tricks, that is I'm not great, but I'm not bad
either. I'm from Lancashire in England and I've been into trials for
just under a year now."
Paul Stewart
Gap Jumping
The gap jump comes in useful when riding trials because you need it to
cross gaps that are more than a wheel's diameter, for example, a standard pallet sized gap.
There are two ways to do it from standstill;
1) If your bike can just straddle the gap with a tyre on each edge of
the gap, start off by pulling a short wheelie and then applying the back brake so that the
front wheel lands on the
other side. Shuffle the bike forwards so that your back tyre is just on
the edge of the gap. To do this sort of thing I would advise putting a lowish pressure in
your tyres, probably 15-20
psi would do. Because your tyres are so springy when they're on a
narrow lip, put your weight
right back, crouching over the back wheel, and then lurch forwards,
hopping the bike as high as
you can, and drawing the bars right up to your chest to basically drag
the bike across the gap.
You're aiming to draw the bike as far forwards as you are capable, so
that the back wheel safely
lands on the other side of the gap. If you find that your back wheel
keeps falling down the gap
and not quite making the distance, there is another method that you can
try, where once you've
put your front wheel on the other side, you rock the bike about, from
the front wheel to on the
back wheel (both brakes on!) and then once you've got the momentum, go
up on a high manual endo,
and then lay off the front brake. The bike will start to roll forwards
across the gap, but your
back wheel will be losing height. When it does, smoothly apply the
front brake and lean forwards
slightly to draw the back wheel up again. Keep doing this until you're
within reasonable
distance, and then lean right back, lay off the front brake and push the
bike forwards as hard as
you can to make the back wheel land just on the edge. Basically you've
just pulled a stoppie
over the gap from standstill.
2) If the gap is just too large to clear with method 1, then you need to
forwardhop over the gap.
To pull this sort of jump, you must wheelie to the edge of the gap and
apply the back brake, so
your front wheel is hanging over the edge. As your front wheel starts
to drop, push down hard on
the pedals to lift it again and as you do this, jump the bike as far up
and forwards as you can.
The bike should travel across the gap at an angle of about 50 degrees,
and as you're in the air,
you should lean forward to stop the bike tipping over backwards, and
also lock the back brake on
so that the bike stops when it lands.
Give it a shot.
Paul Stewart
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